It usually lives in dense vegetation. The ornamental shrimp is only 3cm in size and the body color is very diverse.
Setup Tank Tank
1. Tank size for shrimp farming
A shrimp tank needs to have beautiful and suitable criteria, easy for shrimp viewing. The most suitable shrimp culture tanks are usually 20,30 cubic tanks; If you have conditions, you can always go to the 60 rectangular pool to play (633,644). Do not make tanks over 60 because it is difficult to see the shrimp (or you can be so rich that you can buy a few hundred shrimp to drop in to watch, otherwise wait for the shrimp to grow up and then watch.)
You are watching: Setup Basic Shrimp Pond For Beginners
2. Ground land
The substrates for specialized shrimp farming are usually those that are used to stabilize the pH, and the nutrient level is from medium to extremely low. If you have an economy, don't be afraid to invest in ADA land, otherwise just akadama, control soli, red gex can be pounded cheaply, remember that the red gex is not the green gex (green gex is usually used for tanks grow aquatic plants, if you grow aquatic plants, it's ok)
3. Plants grown in shrimp tanks
Should choose plants that are easy to live without having too high nutritional requirements such as moss, aphids, lotus tiger, seaweed, divine seeds (also known as "pearl pearl seeds" – that's divine trick of some small aquatic shop owners)
No need to choose too expensive lights for shrimp tanks, with 120k and 220k you can easily find yourself a led trough light without the so-called ji brand for tanks 30 and 60 (it seems to be expensive, Because I don't have any big and famous stores, so the retail stores are so expensive). In general, trees if only planted as above item 3 and you invest a 7 liter lamp for a 60 tank, then congratulations, you are a richman, or you have missed a large amount of money while your financial conditions are still limited. mode . And if you grow expensive plants like bucep or some plants that need light to have beautiful colors, it will not be superfluous to invest in a good lamp.
Depending on the size of the tank and choose the most suitable one, the small tank can play waterfall or bio filter, the big tank can play the barrel filter or the hanging filter or the secondary filter, accompanied by an oxygen bubble or a bio filter. . Advice: filter any filter, just play with the included bio filter, the better if you are not too important about the layout, and invest in a good oxygen generator to avoid having to listen to the hum of the effervescent types. price 3-40k okay
6. Decorations, toys for shrimps
Should you see your plants in the tank to see if it's pleasing to the eye? Stop making a few squares (like the picture) and throw it in the tank and it looks good, but I swear to you it's very rare that it comes in unless you let it sit on the moss for a long time before it comes in. gnaw, otherwise it's just decorative, rate the effect: 5/10.
Chola driftwood you should scoop up and immediately drop 1 tree, shrimp likes chola driftwood very much, because it can both be a shelter and a hole for mlem, rate of effect: 10/10
Food dish: 60k or 7k, it's just a glass dish, the purpose is to feed the shrimp, if it's too much, it can be easily sucked out to avoid fluke and not to dig the ground. Effect rating: 9/10
7. Other things to have a complete shrimp tank
Of course, it is indispensable for specialized powdered microorganisms to raise shrimp, live microorganisms (em1, empro, extrabio, mrbio, psb, etc.), and indispensable minerals (water or powder depending on you). , food for shrimp (dry food such as synthetic pellets, spinach pellets, dried atermia, etc. fresh foods such as mulberry leaves, carrots, watermelons, cucumbers, etc.) All fresh foods should be boiled before when released into the tank), egg shells (with or without this, this provides a small amount of calcium to make it easier for the shrimp to peel). And don't forget a bottle of multivitamin for shrimp (I just forgot, but a doctor reminded me.
1. Theory of cycles:
See more: 8 signs your shrimp is under stress
As you know, cycle is to create a cycle for the tank, helping the tank to achieve a stable pH level, a stable amount of microorganisms to be able to handle toxic substances and residues in the ground and later. is fish droppings. Help the shrimp to live well, not to die, not to get sick. But how to cycle properly? Let's find out together below.
2. Ground treatment before cycle
Ace we often skip this important step. We usually put the tank in a neat corner, pour the foundation, create a layout and then fill with water, add microorganisms and run a cycle to wait until the day to release the shrimp. And… how is it still open?! Hmm… that's when we have to think about the water environment is not suitable, don't think our shrimp is sick or the lake is infected. I have watched and consulted the clips of some foreign channels (don't name them because you may tell me PR, but if anyone needs them, just inbox), they not only teach us how to create layouts but they know the nature of each type of ground, how to treat the ground. And right from the crash, I had to reset, learn from experience and try again to find it effective. Please share with me again:
- Land when newly purchased should not be rushed into the tank to create a layout, should use clean water, soak for 3 days in the sun, change the water once a day
- Microbiological injection each time, only on the 3rd day do not need to add microorganisms, for the first 2 days, don't regret 1-2 or a few micro-caps, you can use psb photosynthetic bacteria for cheap (red solution) dark), then pour it out to dry until the soil is completely dry. This will reduce the amount of toxins in the substrate and excess nutrients to a minimum and will eliminate the number of eggs left in the substrate, helping you to go to the tank without itchy eyes.
3. Water treatment
Depending on the conditions of the ace, you can use tap water, well water, rain water, RO water. However, it is not recommended to use well water because in well water there is a heavy metal content that is not good for shrimp, and high tds is difficult to control, and of course, each well water area has a different index, so the consultation service Using well water to raise shrimp is almost impossible.
Tap water: In each locality, the tap water index is also different but not significant. Usually we add oxygen to dissolve chlorine and then use it normally, but high tds in tap water does not mean enough minerals that shrimps may not be able to absorb, this issue will be discussed later, but in general tap water is still usable.
Rainwater: perfect tds index (0-1), low pH (usually 5.5), but in rain water there is a lot of dirt, and if you are near an industrial area, it is not recommended to use it. People in residential areas can catch water from heavy rains. Take advantage of constantly rainy days to store water. Water should be taken from the 2nd rainy day onwards because the water is then very clean, almost free of dirt and smells like the typical musty smell of rain water. How to treat: sunbathe, then oxygenate or dry in the sun and then pour it into the tank to run the cycle. This neutralizes the acid present in the rainwater.
RO water: super clean, tds is also at a perfect level (<10) but usually the pH of RO water is as low as rain water, the only way to treat it is to pour it into the tank and cycle.
4. Run cycle
After completing all the preparatory steps, we have the treated soil and water, now it's time to create the layout for the tank.
The simplest way to easily handle everything in the tank is to spread the ground neatly, if the shrimp tank is not planted, spread a very thin layer (about 1-1.5cm) or use a mesh bag, Small glass tank to put the ground in the corner of the tank, the rest of the tank is empty and decorated with toys, moss, ....
The thinner the soil, the lower the amount of toxic gas that accumulates in the ground.
If spreading the ground, then ace should spread a thin layer of microorganism powder underneath first, then cover the ground and put on the ground 1/3 teaspoon of yogurt (like the clip Purple did for instructions).
*Note when entering the water: in order to get clear water right after entering the tank for the first time, ace takes the time to use a spray bottle to wet the ground and the amount of microbiological powder spread on the surface. Then use a plastic bag or food wrap to spread a corner on the ground and then gently enter the water to avoid flushing, the water will be very clear.
After entering the water, we turn on all the filters, add live microorganisms and turn on the lights continuously for 8 hours or more / day, the first day the appropriate amount of microorganisms is doubled in the following days.
THE NUMBER OF CYCLE DAYS DECIDES ON YOURSELF. Just need to spread the layer of microorganisms on the soil to mold as much as possible.
I cycled exactly 1 day and from the time of release until now, it has been 1 week without any babies.
Filling: take the initial tds index +100 to 150 (bee shrimp should add 100 only). For example: The initial TDS when you run the cycle is 55, please add mineral to 155 and then drop the shrimp carelessly
Food: do not put too much food in the tank, pay attention if you drop any food in a small amount but the shrimp can't eat it all in 3 days, then suck it all out and then adjust the diet, give the dish it's blacklisted. Food for shrimp should be varied and rich, a combination of dry food and fresh food will make shrimp healthier. Each week, shrimp should only be fed protein-rich foods once and should fast for a fixed day to change 10% of water and suck the bottom.
Sharing More Experiences When Setting Up a Shrimp Pond About Cycle: What is a standard cycle?
During the Cycle period, the light should be turned on a day from 5 to 6 hours (because many microorganisms need light to absorb and grow) the more oxygen the microorganism will thrive. In addition, the background will release ammonia or nitrite (two toxic substances that cause death of shrimp immediately even at low content) So we should add duckweed, plants so that they can absorb harmful impurities for shrimp, avoid when Dropping shrimp with lake syndrome will cause the shrimp to die. Here I drop dxlk, bucep combined with STOP AMMO tube to thoroughly remove Ammonia and nitrite.
About microbiology There are many types that can be used, each microorganism is good in its own way. It is not necessary to see this person using this microorganism, you must also use it, but use it when it is within your budget. Which money is right, the microbiology is the same basic, only the different part of the recipe.
The standard cycle of 10-14 days is reasonable, we will depend on the mold part of the microorganism to evaluate from there. However, the thicker the foundation, we should cycle carefully so that the foundation can release nutrients as much as possible. Water requires RO, the lower TDS the better water control (below 10) is okay.
About the parameters, TDS: The lower the pH, the lower the temperature is from 23 to 24 degrees, the shrimp rarely get sick (most of the taiwanbee shrimp have bacterial infections) PH is decided by the background because it's buffered inside the background, so please cycle correctly. then the background automatically returns to the standard pH as the manufacturer offers. The higher the TDS (120 - 130), the white porcelain it looks good but difficult to peel, the most suitable TDS 110 is peeled shrimp just enough. The rearing temperature can be 27-28 degrees, but they will not spawn in this temperature.
About supporting products You can refer to buying microorganisms, VKQH to supplement the water source more stable. Many doctors often mistake CYCLE for a stable tank, but it's not, the tank is just in a finished state and not completely stable. So every day we should add a little bit of micro-organisms and vitamins to improve water quality as well as compensate for dead microorganisms to increase water quality (the tank appears water bugs, shrimps eat food or strong growth of trees signal that the water has gradually stabilized)
About food then it's too much and no need to discuss, any type is good but usually I will let it take 2-3 days to feed to avoid the phenomenon of excess food with flukes (flukes appear due to dead shrimp and spawn when the tank has excess). food) here I use V - mix of purple and Color expert to activate the base of the shrimp.
About medicine I think I'm careful, so I always prepare in advance to know when I'm sick: here I have prepared medicine to treat bacterial infections, quick water decontamination powder (used in case of mosquito repellent) and STOP AMMO to avoid this situation. Ammonia is too high.
A tip I would like to share when you put new shrimp in the tank, you should add green tea leaves to the tank for them to meet, but do not feed industrial food quickly because the acidic green tea leaves will disinfect the shrimp's intestines. It will be good for the new shrimp to arrive.
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