1. Being sprayed with insecticide (the ward or going to spray), mosquito repellent, quickly mosquitos in the house.
Expression: when poisoned, all shrimp will swim around the lake, get into a corner of the lake or swim wildly.
Treatment: open the blower to let the toxic gas fly out, turn off the oxygen, replace the water with lake or tub water, the water in the filter should never be taken from another lake or stored in a nearby tank or barrel. because that water was also poisoned.
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If there is a faucet, put 1 faucet in, 1 faucet out, if not, use a ladle, for every 1 shift in, 1 shift out, replace 100% of lake water. Make sure the water is completely free of chlorine (if it's tap water).
Use multivitamins to prevent shrimp shock and quickly stabilize the environment.
2. Food or supporting products (minerals, detoxification, vitamins, water fertilizers...) fall into the lake too much:
Use a racket to take out immediately and change 20% of water (if it is food and dry products).
Change water 1 in 1 in to 50 or 60% (if water products).
After replacing, add a little multivitamin and observe the behavior of the shrimp tank.
3. Lake is cracked, leaking water:
Cause: may be due to collision or long-term glue line is deflated.
How to fix:
If you don't want to turn the lake over, do the following: Take a bucket, scoop up about 2.3 buckets of water in the lake. Remove all moss, driftwood, oxygen, filter out and then drain the water in the tank. Dry the place to be glued (it is recommended to stick it outside the lake), apply a thin layer of silicone glue, 10 minutes later, apply another layer and let it dry. About 6 to 8 hours later, you can re-enter the water, run the filter for 2 hours, then start adding the shrimp.
4. Shrimps or bubs on the In Out end of the filter at night:
Cause: Because at night, when the lights are off, aquatic plants in the aquarium switch to absorb oxygen and release co2, this causes the tank to be deprived of oxygen, causing the shrimp to often gather in places where the water fluctuates to have more oxygen.
How to fix: install more oxygen and stop the fire when the light is off.
Knowledge About Worms, Worms and Parasites In Shrimp Lake
1. Worms: In freshwater lakes, there are often detritus worms (roughly translated as detritus worms). This species is harmless to both shrimp and fish, usually they live under the substrate to eat leftovers that have penetrated under the substrate. Usually, you raise cory or glass cleaner fish to clean the bottom of the tank, but that's only on the surface of the substrate, and under the surface of the substrate are detritus worms. As for detritus worms, most will be very rarely seen because they live under the substrate, if you see a lot on the surface of the substrate it means "population explosion" and the reason is overfeeding.
2. Parasites: I think many of you are probably not unfamiliar with the two words "hydra", which is a common parasite in both freshwater and saltwater lakes. They often cling to glass or plants, or decorations in the aquarium.
If your tank is "sticky", then 70% is because the aquatic plants you bring from other places to the lake are not clean, that's why European aquarists often buy plants grown in laboratories. tested because they are free of parasites and snails, and of course those will be more expensive (greenaqua.hu is a good example.) The remaining 30% can be for many other reasons such as you take decorations or driftwood, wood from another lake and that lake already has water that you didn't prep, etc.
To confirm if it's water or not, you can touch it with your hands, if it rolls like a mat, it's water. And water is harmful to both young and adult shrimp, they will sting the shrimp when it touches them.
3. Flukes: There are two types of flukes (at least as far as I know) which are planaria and rhabdocoela. They are all flukes, but one is harmful and the other is not. Planaria is a harmful species, they are very opportunistic and when the shrimp are open they will cling to the shrimp and eat the shrimp, usually the planaria will target the young or sick shrimp. The rhabdocoela is a harmless species.
The common point of these two species is that they love to crawl on glass, and the difference is also the point for you to distinguish between these two types is that the planaria has a pointed head and tail like a triangle and the rhabdocoela will have a round head and tail. . And the reason that your tank has flukes is similar to that of water, only that you have to feed shrimp or fish with too much protein in order for the flukes to proliferate in the tank. And more interestingly, they are hermaphrodites, so they don't need 1 male and 1 female, but only 1 can produce offspring and they grow at a very fast rate.
Currently on the market, I have found that there is a type of drug that kills flukes (planaria) and water (hydra) that is Z1 of SL-Aqua. According to the box, it only kills planaria and hydra, not rhabdocoela, and basically the method of killing the two species is not the same. In the US, people often use drugs for dogs to kill planaria and aquatic worms, I have tried and succeeded. As for the rhabdocoela, it's harmless so it doesn't need to be destroyed, it's just a little itchy
Dealing with Dead Shrimps
With the dead shrimp hybrid, there will be two main causes:
The first: That is, during the transportation from the shop to home, you drop the shrimp directly into the lake without letting the shrimp go through the process of 'acclimate', which leads to the shrimp being shocked, stressed, and dead.
Monday: That is, the water parameters in the tank are not right for the type of shrimp you are trying to raise, which also causes the shrimp to be stressed and die.
Shrimps are not like fish, they have a lot of difficulty in adapting to new water sources, so it is easy for them to get stressed. If you intend to raise shrimp for a long time, you should invest in buying RO and mineral water, but tap water often has a lot of impurities and chemicals, so shrimp farming will be very difficult. And of course tap water also comes from a variety of sources everywhere so if your TDS is as low as 20-30 ppm that's also acceptable. I once wrote an article about TDS, if you want, you can read it on the group.
Refer: Shrimp Not Reproductive, What Causes?
In general, many people only rely on the TDS index to predict the mineral level in the lake. For example, if it is true that the water is standard, then when the GH level is 6, the TDS will only fall to about 100 ppm, BUT in my aquarium, the TDS is 263 ppm and when testing the GH level is still only 6. This proves that The tap water in my area is mixed with many other impurities.
So if you use RO water (or tap water with a very low TDS), fully mineralized, the tank number is correct for the type of shrimp you need to raise BUT your shrimp still die, that's the first reason. I will share about how I feed the shrimp through the process of acclimatization to water. The tools I use are all plastic and nothing is metal because shrimp are very intolerant of metals, especially copper. You simply need a small plastic tube (can use a CO2 or Oxygen plastic tube), a valve to adjust the drop and a small basin or bucket:
Step 1: After buying the shrimp, you leave it in the bag and soak it in the lake for about 30 minutes so that the temperature in the tank and the bag is equal.
Step 2: Open the bag and pour the water + shrimp into a small bowl or bucket.
Step 3: Use one end of the plastic pipe to put in the tank, the other end, attach the valve, then use the suction mouth to create a force to suck water from the lake into the shrimp tank. Use the valve to adjust the drop at a rate of about 3 drops/second. Drip like this for 1 hour.
Step 4: After completing step 3, do not directly pour both the water and shrimp in the bowl into the tank. There are two reasons, because you don't know what's in the water at the store and you don't want to make the water in the pool unstable. Use a racket to pick up the shrimp and put them in the lake, then pour the water in the bowl away.
The above method is called Drip Acclimation, which I roughly translate as the drip method. And when you drop shrimp like the above method, the survival ability of the shrimps will be very high. I have done it myself and since I released more than 30 shrimps until now, not a single one has left and today I have seen a few baby shrimps.
What to do with the dead shrimp? Get rid of the dead screams. Observe, see if the water is damaged, change 20% to continue monitoring, see if it dies again? Continue to die 1,2 children. Then change the water 30% continue to monitor. Every time, of course. Add the right amount of micro-organisms and minerals. If you still die. Finally congratulations. Just turn the lake to make a new lake.
1. Mineral deficiency disease:
Manifestations: shrimp with open neck, no peel, dead due to not being able to peel… if using a TDS meter, the index is lower than the allowable level. Correction: add mineral water or mineral powder to overcome.
2. Soft shell disease:
Expression: dead shrimp due to soft shell cannot be peeled, when the new dead shrimp is picked out, we see soft shell or die due to new peeling, but the shell does not harden quickly, causing fellows to bite and injure and die. Using calcium-sodium mineral will quickly overcome this phenomenon.
3. Black gill disease:
Manifestations: black shrimp, passive shrimp, no appetite and often hide in corners, showing fatigue. Fix: add black water, vitamins and increase mineral content more than 40% periodically. Black water helps to disinfect, vitamins improve resistance, and minerals help shrimp peel and remove black membranes.
4. Dead shrimp hybrid:
Cause: there are many causes of dead shrimp, we must determine the cause to be able to cure it all. The most common is the high concentration of NO3 in the water due to shrimp waste. Remedy: Detoxify NO3 below 25 then combine weekly water changes and periodic NO3 removal.
5. Shrimp stopped spawning:
Cause: Poor water quality affects the egg-hugging process of shrimp. Due to high NO3 concentration. Due to the chemicals contained in the drug kill fluke, aquatic ie... Fix: Find the exact cause and then treat it properly. If using chemicals to kill fluke, shrimp will stop laying for 1.5 to 2 months due to the effect of the drug.
7. Red foot disease
The symptom of red leg disease is inactive sick shrimp. Swim slowly or sink at the pool's surface. Sometimes spinning or swimming upright. Slow response to external influences. Loss of appetite or stop eating, the body is sick.
The most important of these symptoms is that the legs turn red. The earliest swimming legs are red, then the legs and tail limbs are also red. This disease has a high mortality rate, because it is acute type.
8. Shrimps die while molting
The main pathogens of the disease are caused by different bacteria such as Vibrio, Pseudomonas, Aeromonas and Myxobacteria. For bacterial invasion, ornamental shrimp suffer from fungus, and shrimp shells are damaged.
Mechanically, another cause of diseases of ornamental shrimp is vitamin deficiency. The main symptom of the disease is slow moving. Sometimes losing balance, swimming side-by-side, falling to the bottom of the pool and eventually dying.
If you look closely at the wounds on the body, you will see that the abdomen, head, and chest of the shrimp body on the back and sides of the tail have brown or black sores. The center spot is concave, dark in color and slightly white on the edges. Dead shrimp often show signs of rotting on the tail, spines and shell feet with a distinct black ulcer border.
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9. Ornamental shrimp blacken gills by fungus
Deterioration of water quality and vitamin deficiency can cause black gill disease. The disease has symptoms of producing a lot of black pigment Melanin. The ornamental shrimp has a fungus that makes the gills dark gray quite dangerous.
Especially on the gills, there are black spots or the whole head turns black. The ornamental shrimp has a filamentous fungus that grows and emerges from the shell. The sick shrimp reacts slowly, running at the bottom of the tank.
10. Filamentous bacterial disease
Also known as filamentous bacterial pathogens. Mainly parasites in larvae and young shrimp. If the bee shrimp are observed with a microscope, disease can be found in this bacteria. Parasitic filamentous bacteria in shrimp. It is easy to cause death. The expression is almost the same as that of ornamental shrimp with fungus.
11. Black spot disease
Black spot disease is one of the dangerous diseases of ornamental shrimp. The cause is similar to black gill disease. It is caused by bacteria and fungi.
Black spot disease is one of the common diseases of ornamental shrimp. Especially Tep Bee. Mainly due to the decomposition of Pseudomonas and Bacillus bacteria and other causes. The most dangerous is the invasion of freshwater algae, leading to the death of the shrimp.
The first symptom of the disease is a small brown spot. The lesions gradually ulcerate and turn black. The most common sites of bacterial infection are silk, abdominal muscles, tail, and legs. The body of the critically ill shrimp lies on the bottom of the tank.
12. Bacterial necrosis disease
The causative agent of bacterial necrosis is more complex. There are many types of bacteria that can cause this disease. Characteristic of bacterial necrosis mainly occurs in shrimp larvae.
The first bacteria concentrated on 1-2 legs swimming. Then quickly destroy the larvae. Sudden temperature changes and careless operation can also cause this disease. When the larval density is too large (100 fish/L) can cause diseases of ornamental shrimp causing them to be necrotic by bacteria.
13. Lyme disease
The characteristic of the disease is that shrimp with severe disease often have hair on the surface of the body. This is the invasion of Epistylis. Then the shrimp will seriously affect the body. This is one of the diseases of ornamental shrimp that is difficult to detect.
14. Necrotizing muscle tissue disease
Necrosis whiten muscle is also known as white muscle opacities. Is one of the diseases of ornamental shrimp caused by high salinity, high temperature, low dissolved oxygen and other adverse environment due to stimulation. Infections with Vibrio or Sporozoites can also occur in the muscles. Different from the symptoms of ornamental shrimp with fungus.
Necrosis of muscle tissue whitens the last two parts of the abdomen, gradually becoming milky. Shrimp lost its transparency. Initially only the tail becomes white and then the entire front body turns white.
There are children with white body all over, looking at the microscope can see the muscles have been necrosis. Unable to distinguish between fibers and parts. Before the shrimp dies, the soft muscles of the head and chest are separated from the abdomen. Shrimp infected with this disease have soft shells, slow growth and high mortality.
According to research, if the water has a salinity of 3.5%, white larvae will die in about 1 hour. Muscle necrosis in males is larger than in females. May be related to physiological factors. In the aquatic environment you can hardly see diseases of ornamental shrimp. Can only detect when there is a dead child below. Or the occurrence of abnormal eating phenomenon.
15. White Spot Disease
It is one of the common diseases of ornamental shrimp. White spot disease is abbreviated as WSSV. The symptoms of white spot disease are a lot of loss of appetite. Even stop eating. Slow action and weak bounce. Float on the water or float on the bottom of the pool, do not move.
The chest and bladder are easily peeled off. The body color of the infected shrimp tends to be slightly red or dull, and the body surface is sticky. The white spot on the inside of the body that looks like a Mushroom Shrimp can be seen directly with the naked eye.
How to treat water safely before use and simple and effective disease prevention methods for shrimp tanks
For tap water: aerate oxygen to remove chlorine, use dechlorinating chemicals or pour into a bucket to wait for the chlorine to disappear. Oxygen aeration time is about 4-6 hours and waiting for it to evaporate completely is 6-12 hours. For well water: usually has impurities and low pH, so if you want to replace the tank, you should filter it first (may not be needed) and aeration to increase pH.
Simple but effective disease prevention method for shrimp ponds
Change the water regularly every week 15-20%B. 1-2 times a week to help disinfect and stabilize water. Add minerals, calcium once a week for shrimp to peel evenly and quickly harden the shell.
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